Philippines's History:

A brightly colored fishing boat passes the squatting area on Manila Bay.

For a complete picture of the Philippines, you can't miss this frenetic city of 9 million. But don't plan on relaxing -- Manila can be one of the most exhausting cities in Southeast Asia. The heart of old Manila can be found inside the Intramuros (literally "Within the Walls"), the original 16th-century Spanish settlement. The site was heavily damaged during World War II, but the fort and St. Augustine Church still retain their Old World feel.

The University of Santo Tomas is one of the oldest universities in Asia -- be sure to see its Arts and Science Museum. Other sights include the new National Museum at the government finance building (native and contemporary art displays), the Ayala Museum (Philippine history, botanical garden and aviary) and the American Military Cemetery and Memorial (in the suburb of Makati, it has excellent World War II exhibits). Visitors to the capital should also stop at Rizal Park (a wonderful place for strolling), the Coconut Palace (built entirely of palm wood and coconut shells) and the Chinese Cemetery (some gravesites are full-sized houses complete with air-conditioning). Manila's infamous red-light district of Ermita was closed down more than a decade ago: Most of the girlie bars have moved to nearby Pasay City or Quezon City or north to Angeles City (the former U.S. Air Force base). The Heritage and Holiday Inn Hotels offer Las Vegas-style gambling 24 hours a day. Malate, the city's bohemian quarter, is a seductive jumble of jazz bars, outdoor gardens, poetry cafes and transvestite hangouts. The neighborhood's best-known spot is the Hobbit House -- a bar staffed by dwarfs.